10 things about Roma

1. The fountains belong to everyone. The most common use is drinking, but today I saw a man wet a rag and wipe down his dusty rear windshield.

2. The coolest place in the city is along the Tevere (Tiber) River; trees line both sides and the breeze blows unfettered by the city's characteristic buildings and desultory street plan.

3. Gelato can and should be eaten at any time of day.

4. Walking safely in Rome takes an expansive attention. (Note: this is not the same as ADHD-like attention, or being so distracted by everything around you that you perceive without actually attending to anything; that is to say, anti-participation in life).

Expansive attention seems the true opposite of meditative attention, where one focuses on a single word or idea, or indeed nothing at all. In Rome, one must listen to one's walking (passeggiatta) partner, and also attend to the space on all sides. Behind you, might come a Vespa or a car or a garbage truck or a bike or a person walking faster than you are walking. It is up to you to hear them and step somewhere out of the way, usually to the side of the street, but sometimes to a stoop or the threshold of a shop (negozio). In front of you, might also come any of these. Do not play chicken and do not be indecisive; instead, exercise your power of subtle cue-reading to decide where they intend to go and where you can move your body so as to be out of the way. If both people do this properly, a successful trading of spaces occurs.

5. From a guidebook: "it is customary to let the vendor select the produce for you." At first I was uncomfortable with this, thinking they would give me the most rotten pieces. To the contrary, they want to know what day you plan to eat the item and will select the choicest selection depending on your response.

6. "Where are my keys?" in correct Italian is "Dove sono le mie chiave?" Dove = where; sono=are; le mie chiave = the my keys (feminine).

7. Formaggio means cheese; pomeriggio means afternoon. When you ask for pasta without pomeriggio you get a funny look from the server.

8. There is milk in the gelato cones, and every gelato-rista (like coffee barrista) knows this.

9. You are welcome to draw in the Maxxi Museum but so as not to impede the experience of flowing physical space, you may not sit on the floor.

10. Rome can be enjoyed in any state. If you are feeling melancholy, Rome will soothe your spirit, and if you are already happy, Rome will make you into a chortling bundle of joy.